Hypoallergenic Creams May Irritate Eczema and Psoriasis
Shocking research suggests that lotions and creams labelled as 'hypoallergenic' may not be as pure and natural as the label would imply.
Roughly 83 percent of moisturisers labeled “hypoallergenic” contained at least one ingredient believed to potentially cause allergic reactions, the study found. And 45 percent of products claiming to be “fragrance free” actually contained a fragrance or a botanical ingredient.
Furthermore, many of the moisturisers contained chemicals known as parabens, which can cause rashes and worsen skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
This means patients can’t assume that moisturisers marketed as hypoallergenic, fragrance-free or even dermatologist-recommended will actually help skin conditions, said lead study author Dr. Steve Xu of Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine.
“Ultimately, there is no such thing as a zero-risk cosmetic product,” Xu said by email.
“For moisturisers, white petroleum or pure shea butter are lower risk, but trusting the labels is not enough,” Xu added. “Making sure there are as few ingredients as possible is also a good thing to double check.”
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
When it comes to caring for our skin, we’re so used to slathering on the latest miracle cream or rushing out to buy a myriad of cleansers, toners and exfoliants, without really thinking about what they contain. Surely they’re only going to help problem skin, right? Not necessarily.
Many of the magic lotions and potions on the market today are stuffed full of various chemicals and while some of these can have a positive effect on our complexion, they often contain ingredients which, in the long term, may do us more harm than good. The key is to search out brands which focus on a holistic approach to healthy-looking skin. Where possible, try to invest in skin-care products that contain only high-quality, organic plant-based ingredients. Naturally these combinations are likely to be more pricey than your standard shower gels, shampoos and moisturisers. But with a growing awareness and interest in natural remedies, production is on the increase, which in turn is lowering cost.
Take a look online or in your local organic health store to see what’s available. Remember, what we put on to our skin ends up inside our bodies – just think how nicotine patches work. So check the list of ingredients and get to know what you don’t want in a product. These are what to avoid:
Animal testing – which is unnecessary and cruel
Silicones – fill in uneven skin texture like fine lines and acne scars to give the illusion of great skin. To do this they coat the skin, impeding its natural function
GMO’s – not enough is known about the possible long-term implications of genetically modified organisms used in skin care products
Alcohol – creates a quick drying, weightless finish in creams and foundations. Irritation from alcohol causes dryness, free-radical damage, and hurts the skin’s ability to heal, keeping it in a near-constant state of stress
SLS (sodium laurel sulfate) – is an effective foaming agent, creating the rich lather that most of us expect in shampoos. It’s a known skin irritant which can exacerbate dandruff and dermatitis
Mineral oils – derived from petroleum, are lightweight and inexpensive. They help reduce water loss from the skin. Wherever they're applied, they form an invisible film on the skins surface that blocks pores and the skin's natural respiration process
Parabens – prevent mould, fungus and bacteria from growing on cosmetic products. But parabens have also been linked to hormonal imbalances
Acrylates – found in cosmetic nail products, have been linked to developmental and reproductive toxicity
Phthalates – used in hair spray to help avoid stiffness and nail varnish to stop it cracking. It’s reported these can have a toxic impact on humans and animal life
Propylene glycol – used as an emulsifier or humectant to hold on to moisture, it will dry out skin when used over time
DEA (diethanolamine) – used to make cosmetics creamy. Associated with known carcinogens
EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid) – works primarily as a preservative, chelator and stabiliser, but has also been shown to enhance the foaming and cleaning capabilities of a cosmetic solution. It breaks down the skin’s protective barrier, making it easier for other potentially harmful ingredients in the formula to sink deeper into your tissues and perhaps even into your bloodstream
BHA or BHT (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) – closely related synthetic antioxidants used as preservatives in lipsticks and moisturisers. Linked to breathing and lung impairment
Nanoparticles – the concern with nanoparticles is that the materials are small enough to penetrate the skin and get inside the body. Not enough is known about the implications of long-term use
So what should we be using on our skin? My personal favourites - and this really is a personal recommendation and not a paid for advert!! - is Green People and Neals Yard. These companies produce really lovely products which are not too pricey and free of chemical nasties. My skin has always responded well to them.
If budget is not a barrier it's most definitely worth checking out Isun too. They very kindly sent me some of their wonderful products, and they really are incredible. Their ethos and wildcrafted ingredients are truly amazing.
Find out more about damaging chemicals and make natural skin care alternatives using the recipes in my book Radiant
Source of study; JAMA Dermatology, online September 6, 2017.
